Something for Everybody

Written Wed. Aug. 17th.
Richard was right when he talked about the groups. We just hadn't seen those big groups ourselves. Leaving Roncesvalles we were told that 250 people had left that morning. That seemed amazing. Somewhere along the way we heard that more than 700 had left another morning. That didn't have any meaning for us at all; impossible to imagine. Where do 700 people go?

It's high season now. As we approach Santiago the groups get larger and there are more of them. The first big group we saw, in Samos; there is a famous monastery there where we hoped to stay. Full! They had 180 beds full with a group of Americans from Fellowship of Catholic University Students (FOCUS). It's not a fluke. It's become the norm. There are groups of Italian girls in blue shorts and white shirts and groups of boys in something like Scout uniforms with blue neckerchiefs and smoky bear hats. Small groups from Cadiz and Murcia. We left Palas de Rei before daylight and there were hundreds, hundreds, of young people sitting on the curb under the streetlights preparing to set off.

The albergues fill up before they open. I mean really. There are lines outside and many, if not all, will be full before the lines are accommodated. And these are huge albergues. Samos, 180 beds. Portomarín. 132, I think it was. In the larger places there are several as well as several pensions, etc. It's become a business. In spite of that it's not enough. Some of those who wait will have to go on. Many will have to go on and on.

We watch as whole busloads of day-trippers are dropped off, each with their tiny daypacks and 2 walking sticks. Then we hear those sticks as they come running up behind us; click, clack, click, clack, click, clack. And they blow by us as though we were standing still. And Italians! If we were to do this again we would both speak passing Italian. Where do they all come from? Bicycles come from behind so fast that you don't have time to get out of the way and now with so many people on the trail there is no place for a bicycle to go. Or, you either. The bars and restaurants are full too. We wait for tables and staff is over worked.

It's a different annoyance, but it goes with the territory. People come from all over. Some have bicycles. Some have donkeys. Some walk with 2 sticks and no packs. There is something for everybody and everybody gets something different. Most importantly, I think everybody gets what he wants. Though it still surprises me that anyone else would want to do this!

Solution? We have upgraded. Last night we stayed in a beautiful little private place, "Casa Milia". Wonderful staff. Today, not bad but not so good either. We walked well today. We're within striking distance of Santiago itself.