Friday, April 29, 2011

Las Médulas

Mountaintop removal - Roman style.


There may have been something on American TV about this place. It's a gold mine and a first order environmental catastrophe - really. The name for the river that the Spanish know as Duero and the Portuguese know as Douro (empties into the Atlantic at Oporto) comes from d' oro (of gold). The Romans mined this place in the 1st & 2nd century A.D. and they did it in a manner that they called "ruina montina" and is similar to what we do today by drilling down into rock and loading the drill holes with explosives. Except that they didn't have explosives and instead channelled water 85km and funneled it down shafts dug into this, what I assume to be, glacial deposit (equivalent, I suppose to the placer deposits of Calif.) and undercutting the entire mountain where upon it would blow out in one go and concentrate the gold where they could pick up the pieces. I think I remember that they recovered 6,000 kg of gold. But they removed hundreds of millions of m3 of material to do it.



It hasn't grown back. Except for a few chestnuts, doubtless cultivated, there is almost nothing taller than the heather.

Which leaves a bunch of questions. Betcha anything the price of gold has fallen in real terms.

And of course, as you would expect from environmental catastrophe, the bird life here is exceptional - except you have to know everything by ear because the little suckers hide from you and you can't see anything and I don't know many of these by ear - exceptionally frustrating.

So today's bird list is Blackbird, Chaffinch, (Winter) Wren, by ear and Kites, Kestrel, & Eagle (could be Golden, Imperial, or Spanish, depending on the book you are using). House Martin, most of which have moved to the cities, is still nesting on these cliffs. Also had terrific looks at Bonelli's, Dartford & Cetti's Warblers and Honey Buzzard a couple of days ago.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Easter week in León

These aren't exactly Easter parades like we have at home which all start at one point and end at another. Each cofradia (brotherhood, club) organizes its own route, carries its own "paso", has its own tradition. So they are scattered throughout the city. Though most probably begin or end at the cathedral. Many, probably most, have a history of centuries.

Sevilla hosts the more famous, but I've always heard of these in León as being more serious, more serene, with a deeper religious foundation. Maybe. Maybe not. That probably depends on who you talk to. I've been to Sevilla and yes, it's festive - but no smurfs. I was looking forward to these in León. Anyway, we've had the misfortune to have encountered rain every day this week. And they just don't take the "pasos" into the rain. We were only able to see this one procession.


http://m.youtube.com/?dc=organic&source=mog#/watch?v=gbEK_GzqaoM

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Museo Reina Sophia

This place is new. It wasn't here the last time I was in Madrid. It houses more modern work. Some of it leaves me flat.




The cubist stuff leaves me flat too.



Picasso's Guernica is here - part of our shared experience. They wouldn't let me take pictures of it, but that doesn't matter. You've already seen it. It looks just like in the pictures only bigger.

I liked the Dali. Not flat.










And some work by Jean Miró.


"Man with a (flat) Pipe"


And more Goya - a whole series of these etchings.



And a wide variety of work from the early 20th century from just about anything to the surreal. This one is funny.



And even some nice photos of Spanish pueblos in the 1950's by an American photographer who's name escapes me and was published in Life.

El Prado

Originally el prado (meadow) de los Jerónimos, which is what this place was when construction was begun at the end of the 18th century with the intention of creating a natural history museum. Almost before it was completed it was taken over by the French in what the Spanish call the War of Independence and we and the British call The Peninsular War. The building was trashed by Napoleon's cavalry and then restored at the end of the war and it's mission changed to exhibit the art collections of the royal family; which were considerable owing especially to the connection Phillip II, (Felipe el hermoso (beautiful), had 200 yrs. earlier to both the riches of the Americas and to Flanders - the latter being makers of both fine fabric and fine art, the former being the means of acquisition. Felipe was born in Flanders, part of the Spanish crown, and found it inconvenient to have to reside in Spain as monarch. He took as much of Flanders with him as he could. Consequently El Prado has wonderful collections of both Spanish and Flemish painters and good representations from Italian painters too.

I've been here before - long ago. Museums this size are hard to manage. You can take the nickel tour in which they try to show you everything and you see nothing. Or you can wander about until something holds your interest and you don't want to leave. I did that the last time I was here and bumped into Velasquez. I didn't see anything else and not much of that. So much to do, so little time.

This time I came with a different strategy. I wanted to see Goya and Rubens then probably El Greco, Bosch, Brueghel, that would be enough.

Goya - amazing. There is no way that somebody like myself is going to put this in words but he drew heavily upon Velasquez using similar compositions more than once. Mounted portraits are common (but then they all did that).

Velasquez seems always enthusiastic about his subjects, always cognizant of his market and always puts his subject in a favorable light even when the inbreeding is so apparent as to be.... Ms MP said, "the horses show better breeding". Goya, not so much. If Goya didn't like you it would show. Not in a way that would have him hung. It's always subject to interpretation - subtle. They wouldn't allow me to use the camera or I would have put up some shots here. But there was one portrait of Fernando VII (Ferdinand) big butt, insolent expression, awkward, vacuous; stuffed into a majestic costume. Maybe google can help you find it. Amazing. Goya was an intellectual. He expected more majesty. And it shows even more in his later work. He was traumatized when the French, who he admired so much, invaded and shot this place up. Two works, "The Invasion of the Marmalukes" (sometimes called May 2, 1808) and the other May 3, 1808 showing executions of common people mark a change in the way he painted. Everything after that is dark, (I think everything, not sure) dramatic and trending toward impressionism. These are screams. There is no heroism in Goya's war.

Well, that's the way I see it. It's subject to interpretation.

Rubens - I love Rubens. It's a Rubens at the top of this page. Beautiful. I can't tell you how powerful it is to stand in a room full of canvas some of which measure 4m across. Powerful isn't quite the right word. It's the paint that's powerful. I'm in the presence of greatness.

El Greco - I was disappointed. Funny, I always liked what I knew about him and the forms are truly wonderful but the color is garish. He should have painted Elvis.

Brueghel - only a couple of pieces here. I want to see more.

Bosch - Garden of Natural Delights and about 2 others. Amazing vision which points to Dali, but on this day when I've seen so much I just can't bother to contemplate it.

Surprises - Raphael. I didn't even come for this and it might be best of show.

Please try to look this up. Antonello da Messina, "The Dead Christ Supported by an Angel". This is a comparatively tiny canvas, about 60x100cm. how anybody could paint heartbreak like that blows me away.

We were constantly walking into rooms of paintings that we had never heard of and just struck dumb.



Monday, April 11, 2011

History (general outline)

I have always felt that Spanish history was far more interesting than the British history that was forced upon us in school. First - well not exactly first, but there is even less reason to discuss the Celts - when the Romans pulled out and left Britannia to their mercenary Angles and Saxons, there was no history there at all until St. Augustine arrived about 400 years later. Nothing, no evidence of a written language. It all disappeared - a forgotten land. Even later it was such an uncivilized back-water that nothing interesting happened until it came to the attention of the Normans who were most responsible for dragging it, kicking and screaming, out of the stone age. The Tudor despots, who's histories did so much to amuse my teachers, are only interesting as a study in... despotism. And there is plenty of that to study elsewhere. Perhaps, more charitably, it's interesting because what had become by then British, with their diminished history and experience, began to interact once more with the more developed cultures of the continent; which only became of real significance much later still.

Meanwhile, while the Celts were still breaking rocks, Spain (Hispania) had thriving port cities in, among other places, Cadiz (Phoenician Gadis), Cartagena (Carthaginian) and a small Greek port (the Greeks had an eye for these) on what is now the Costa Brava and called Empuries which the Romans knew as Emporium and from where we get that word ourselves. But it was they, the Romans really, who were first to push inland displacing the Iberian tribes of which some may have been Celts, but only the Basques remain.

The collapse of Roman civilization led to waves of upheavals, immigrations, dislocations, displacements, clashes of civilizations and cultures, which led to its own dark age (though not so dark as Britannia where there is no historical record at all) and had more profound effects. Not just in the records of those times, but also today.

After Rome came the Goths (in our school books Visigoths). Most major Spanish cities have their Gothic quarter today. (Gothic architecture is miss-named and comes from a different period). Then the Vandals (enough said) and from time to time and place to place the Vikings.

But it was the Moors, a mix of Berbers, Arabs, and Syrians and a more enlightened people who stayed longer, nearly a thousand years, and who had the greater influence. Except for that mountain range along the north, they conquered the whole peninsula in just two years; not so much by the sword as by the acquiescence of a people fed up with the prevailing anarchy. If they had been able to see beyond their own narrow individual self-interests to develop a more cohesive social and governing policy they would be there still. But they couldn't. So, the reconquest – initially led by descendants of the those same Goths. This period of the middle/late middle-ages, the reconquest, is the defining moment in Spanish history; more important than the accidental wealth that befell them later. And also, believe it or not, instrumental in the conquest of the Americas. Because later, when the Moors had finally been driven from the peninsula, a young Queen of Castilla y Leon and by marriage Aragon, busted flat by the struggle to secure her kingdom, hocked the only liquid asset she had left to finance an expedition and enter the spice trade. It was a long shot venture - precisely - which didn't work out exactly as planned, but didn't turn out so badly either and that's a story you already know.

That itself exemplifies to me something which prevails in the Spanish character and though it may not be unique to them, something, maybe necessity, allows them the faith to be able to sail off the edge of the earth without a compass. They have always done this. Spain has always exported population. Always. First from that coastal range that lies between the camino del norte and camino frances, the mountains of Asturias and Cantabria, to the meseta of Castilla, then south to La Mancha and Estremadura, finally to Andalucia (Arabic: Al Andalus) and the Americas. See the links to the Spanish kingdom maps at left. Leaving home for good is as Spanish as anything can be and a history that they know too well. It isn't easy. Ms MarcoPolo knows first hand. And it's so commonplace that unless it involves a queen it's hardly worth mentioning. The Camino de Santiago walks you right through the middle of this. It's all around you, everywhere, and one reason why I really want to walk that trail myself.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

El camino de Santiago

El Camino de Santiago is not a single path, but a medieval religious pilgrimage which begins in different locations and come together at Santiago de la Compestela in northwest Spain where legend has it that Saint James is buried. I say, “legend has it” because it's almost certainly not true. But that doesn't matter. What matters is that it was the second most important religious pilgrimage of the middle ages following only that of Rome itself.

See a map here


Objective

Ms MarcoPolo and I hope to walk the part that is called “El camino frances” (the french route) from Roncesvalles which is just on the Spanish side of the border near St. Jean- Pied-du-Port and finish in Santiago. It's a journey of just less than 800 km. It would be nice if we could finish in time for the fiestas of St. James' day, July 25th , and we have allowed plenty of time. If we finish at all that will be enough. If we're successful we will have traveled through Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, Leon, Ponferrada, and Santiago. There are five languages spoken in Spain. Some maps show place names in the local languages. So, in Basque Roncesvalles is Orreaga and is Pamplona is Iruña. Castillian is spoken from Burgos to Ponferrada and there shouldn't be any confusion. Then you might see some Gallego (Galician?) names further west.

You will notice there is a parallel path along the coast (Camino del Norte). A mountain range called the Picos de Europa separates the two and figures into many of the things that influenced Spanish history - Spain is what it is because of its climate and geography - which I hope to talk about later.

See the links at the left. The Wikipedia article is especially good and Google Earth shows the relief.

Now maybe you're asking, “why do that”? Well, me too! I'm told that when you get your Pilgrims Passport at the start of the camino they ask you that very question and you have to tick a box, religious, cultural, or spiritual. That sounds awfully bureaucratic. I guess you can't tell them, “no reason”. But then everybody has a reason. I have lots of reasons and they are all more complex than exes and boxes. The reasons have to do with understanding – understanding history, the history of my religion, understanding a culture that I encountered as a young person and a people who have always been good to me; people that appear different than me on superficial levels, but really no different at all. It is that, the likenesses, that are important. And I hope the experience will inspire my longer journey too. Also, simply because I can. A working man can't indulge this sort of extravagance. Extravagant it is. Frivolous it's not.

I want to further those understandings and I want to share them. I hope that I'll be able to do that here.

Wish us a ¡buen camino!